Friday, December 17, 2010

We've got Bollywood

Ok, first of all, India is no Nepal, it's a totally different beast altogether. Not only have we lost our ability to share shards of conversation with locals (there's like 20,000 different languages here and apparently you have to be able to read a person's dialect from their face to avoid insulting them) but we've lost our hold on what's culturally acceptable and expected. Nonetheless, we're having a great time our here and enjoying some pretty crazy adventures. After ten hours of travel from Pokhara to Gorakhpur, we hopped on a 30+ hour train to Bombay (only losers call it Mumbai) in a sleeper car. We had heard volumes of terrifying stories about the sleepers, from druggings and theft to crippled beggars crawling into bed with foreigners, but the whole thing was actually really easy and comfortable except for the duration. 

Max Getting The Old Ear Cleaning Scam

One problem we faced was being shaken awake by an adjacent passenger at 4:30 in the morning. "Bombay, Bombay, ten minutes!" he told us. Now, we thought we'd be arriving at 9AM or so and would be able to easily find a hotel room in the bright Indian sun, but alas, it was not to be. After a scamtastic taxi ride to the tourist district, Kolaba, we wandered through the wide, Parisian-esque streets (it's been very strange to find ourselves in a city that is so modern and distinctly European, we even have enjoyed Indian McDonalds a few times). Fortunately we found some Westerners huddled together on the street in front of the Taj Hotel (where Obama stayed last month and the site of the terrorist attacks of 2008) next to the Gateway of India who allowed us to rest our weary bodies near them. As we have learned during our months of travel, friends are plentiful even in unfamiliar places and so after starting the day alone, we ended our evening on a rooftop restaurant with 14 other people from Israel, Germany, South Africa, England, Singapore, France and the US. Just an awesome first day in Bombay.

And the fun only continued the next day. Joined by some of our friends from the hostel we hopped in a van at 8 in the morning to travel to a Bollywood set and work as extras for the forthcoming film "Ready" (there's actually a wikipedia article about this movie). Dressed in fashionable wardrobe, the Masala Ballas mulled around a giant set (apparently a wedding in Iran??) until they were needed. The scene was a big showdown between the good guys and the bad dudes which involved a lot of stage punches for the actors and repeated directions to looked "shocked" for the extras. We were involved in so many scenes and so prominently displayed (we took our job much more seriously than the other scrubs they pulled off the street) that one of the directors told us to "hide" ourselves in the background because we had been "established" in several locations within a few seconds. Eli even received kudos from multiple directors and there are whispers of a multi-movie deal in the works with Indian star Salaam Khan. 

The Big Fight Scene in "Ready" the Next Big Hit (Don't Worry, We Were Much Better Than These Sour Faced Extras)
[Not shown: the fork that becomes lodged in one of the actor's rears in this scene's culmination]
Overall, it was just an awesome experience: we received free breakfast, lunch, snacks, chai, and 500 rupees (just shy of 12 US dollars) all for only 15 hours of work and transportation. Such suckers....

Our Bollywood Debut!
Tomorrow we leave for Goa, the region renowned for its miles of unbroken beaches. It's very strange to think that we were in the Himalayas less than two weeks ago and tomorrow we will be enjoying the hot hot sun in Goa. Yes, we have seen the weather reports from Chicago: we'll drink something tropical out of a coconut for all of you.

Saturday, December 11, 2010

Mumbai-Curious

After exactly 100 days in Nepal we are taking a train down south;  45+ hours of transportation ahead.
We are going to have to change the blog title now that we are going to be in India. Any suggestions?

Thursday, December 9, 2010

Hindu Thin Air: The HimaPlayas Go Trekin'

Yeah, we were on top of the world.  It's hard to describe 2+ weeks in the Himalayas in a blog post, we'll do our best, but forgive us if we rely on pictures instead of literally describing the daily grind of trekking.

Joined by honorary Acclimate, Chris Garren, professional mountain climber and ranking much higher in Alpine IQ than either of us (he also had a critical piece of equipment: a watch, so that we could wake up on time to make it to the next town...), our enlarged crew was prepared to start the 100+ mile journey.
 
Last photo before hitting the trail
Once on the Circuit, we settled into a very nice routine: wake up with the sun (around 6:30), eat a energizing breakfast generally consisting of porridge, and Tibetan bread (super-delicious fried bread for that good-morning burst), and start hiking, most of the time up up up. An average day of hiking was about 6-7 hours not including our midday break of Snickers and Daal Baht, and regularly changing our layers (the mornings were bitter cold, then after 20 minutes of walking we were unbearably hot, and then right around 12:30-1 it would start getting extremely cold again, so yeah, we had to constantly switch up our threads). 
FantasTrek!
One of countless Trexellent suspension bridges
Mid-Trekking-Action Shot
What a Cute Little Furball!.. and the Puppy is Cute Too
We walked through terrain of all kinds: from jungle and rice paddies, to lush pine forests, and eventually to the stark alpine desert well above the tree line. We rounded out the trek by spending a few days in Tatopani relaxing in a natural hot spring to soothe our weary muscles. We were lucky with the weather and had clear views of the most intimidatingly beautiful mountains in the world just about everyday. At night we would crawl into our sleeping bags, trying to fight the cold  in the ever-freezing guesthouses. Our hike from Besi Sahar to the top of Thorong La pass took us from 2,000 feet of elevation to almost 18,000 (not to mention several days of climbing and climbing only to descend to our starting elevation), and we did it while making lots of new traveling friends from across the globe.
We Spun a Lot of Prayer Wheels

Chris and the Annapurnas
Enjoying Into Thin Air on Thanksgiving in  Manang's most exclusive movie theater
Two hungry trekkers await their daal baht lunches
Partying with Russians at 17,800 feet
Thorong La Pass
On the way down we cleansed our bad karma in the 108 holy taps at Muktinath: That's right... we have clean slates
Then we had the pleasure of hanging out with a Sadhu named Baba at his cave